Saturday, September 23, 2006

All the umbrellas in London couldn't stop this rain

After a delightful week of taking pictures in Budapest and Brasov, I came to Bucharest last night. Today my camera was stolen.

At least it's not raining. Oh wait, it's pouring outside.

Maybe I should blame everything on the elements, but I am not finding much to enjoy in this city. It's maybe jumped right to the top of my city-shit-list, perhaps even topping certain small towns in western Illinois.

I'll do some more detailed posts after I return to Vienna tomorrow night. I'm a little frazzled at the moment, so I'll just update you on some more exciting news from Downers Grove, Illinois.

  • Downers Grove-based company Sara Lee introduced a new line of bread last week, called Hearty & Delicious!

  • A junior at Downers North, Lindsey Springstroh, has been selected to participate in the ninth annual National Rifle Association Youth Education Summit!

  • Don't worry, guys, because of a glitch in a computer system, the deadlines for your water bills have been extended!


Fucking Bucharest.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Burning down the house

So, I'm in Budapest. And there's a riot going on literally a few blocks away. More later.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Europahaus

After the first week in the hotel, we moved into our permanent place of residence - Europahaus. It's a pretty new and clean little campus out in the very suburban 14th Bezirk of Vienna. It's made up of several different buildings, including a hotel, restaurant, and castle, all connected via underground pedway. If you're familiar with the bright and sterile Max Palevsky dorms on the University of Chicago campus by the library, that's what it kind of looks like.

We share the dorm (and kitchen) with a bunch of Austrian kids, none of whom I've met. When we got there, they were putting up love beads in our hallway, along with a sign proclaiming it a Desaster Area [sic]. These have since been taken down, probably by the maids.

Desaster Area
Desaster Area

We have some sort of maid service here, but their inconsistency confuses me. For example, when we first arrived, my bed was made, but no one else's was. When they cleaned the bathroom the first week, they didn't give us any toilet paper, but they gave some to everybody else. The next week, they gave us tons of toilet paper...but they stole our hand soap.

The Europahaus restaurant has a special student menu everyday for €4.20. However, they don't ever tell you what the dish is. It's usually a safe bet that it's some kind of fried thing.

Europahaus restaurant
Europahaus Restaurant

There are also music rooms, Tischtennis rooms, pool rooms, tv rooms, fitness rooms, and two saunas. There's what appears to be a wooden outdoor square-dance floor, too.

Europahaus is a prime spot for retreats, weddings, and whatnot, it appears. Every night, there are new groups of people doing trust falls, hugging each other, and setting tealights on the ground. Sometimes, there are small children violently being pushed about in bouncy castles. Then, someone accidentally releases a bunch of heart-shaped balloons into the air.

There's this ice cream parlour down the street that we always want to go to. The first few times we went there, however, the lights were on, the doors were open, but no one was there. We waited for a while, and no one emerged. Every time we would walk past it, it was the same. It's closed late at night, so there must be someone who goes in there. We tried again a few days ago, and the doors were closed this time. On our last attempt, the doors were closed, the blinds were closed, and the entrance blocked off.

P.S. - our Austrian pal Steffi e-mailed us back! She just moved in with her grandmother, and then she'll be travelling around to visit her sister's children, and then she says we're invited to hang out!


Die Wiener Kompilation

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Meanwhile in Downers Grove...

In addition to the Randy Newman concert on November 3 that I'm missing while in Europe, look what's just been announced for the very next day:

On the morning of Saturday, November 4 at the Tivoli Theatre in Downers Grove, Lemony Snicket (aka Daniel Handler) will be making an appearance. For the entrance fee of just $20, you get a copy of his new book, a booksigning, a screening of the Lemony Snicket film, a special presentation by the author, and...

a live solo ukelele performance by Stephin Merritt (as The Gothic Archies).


Stephin Merritt
All you lucky folks still at home, head over to Anderson's Bookshop to get your ticket.

In related news:
  • On October 10, The Gothic Archies will release the music accompanying the Lemony Snicket book in album-form.
  • The Magnetic Fields are working on a new album that should be released in the spring.
  • The Future Bible Heroes have a new song on a Neil Gaiman tribute CD.
  • Stephin Merritt recorded a new song called "The Meaning of Lice" for a contemporary retelling of the Book of Exodus, funded by the British government. The album also features songs by Laurie Anderson, Brian Eno, Rufus Wainwright, and others.

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Saturday, September 09, 2006

Das „Full Hit Of Summer“

On August 29, I went with a couple guys to see the sold-out „Full Hit Of Summer“ concert, featuring the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and TV On The Radio, along with Dirty Pretty Things and You Say Party! We Say Die! And it was quite the show.

Note: Out of kindness, I'm putting mp3s and whatnot at the end of every post, so check them out.

As we were waiting for the subway to come, we spotted a couple of people who, based on the way they were dressed, looked likely to be heading to the concert too. We ended up sitting across from them on the train and they initiated a conversation with us, in German, asking if we were going to the concert and about the bands we liked. It seems that talking about indie rock seems to be the easiest way to make friends in Austria, too. Our first Austrian pals were named Stefanie and Clemens and they're brother and sister. Stefanie's a big Yeah Yeah Yeahs fan and she had just turned 21 ("so I can drink in America now") so Clemens bought her a ticket as a present. She studied abroad in France last year and lived with people who would only speak German with her, so she said she understood how hard it is to get people to help you learn the language. Clemens told us he's planning on studying either in Seattle or Chicago next year.

The concert venue, Arena, is amazing. It's this old abandoned meat factory that was, according to Clemens, "conquered by punks" in the '80s and converted into an open-air venue. You can either stand in the big open space in front of the stage or in the elevated ring of concrete surrounding the arena. The ground is on an angle up from the stage, so you get a pretty good view no matter where you are. There seemed to be three or four different bars within the place...as well as the requisite hippie-incense-and-tie-dye stand.

Arena exteriorArena crowd
Arena


We missed You Say Party! We Say Die!. TV On The Radio dominated. It wasn't as huge of a sound as when I saw them open for The Pixies in New York, but I think they're tighter as a band. Also, Kyp Malone's beard is bigger. Surprisingly, they didn't play that much off of Return To Cookie Mountain, which may be my favorite album of the year so far. Tunde Adebimpe kept complaining about his monitor not being loud enough, and when saying, "Make it louder" in a German accent still didn't help, he resorted to mumbling a bunch of Star Wars quotes into the microphone. Near the end of the concert, he accidentally fell backwards onto the drumset and mumbled something else about breaking his tailbone.

Tunde Adebimpe of TV On The RadioKyp Malone of TV On The Radio
Tunde Adebimpe and Kyp Malone of TV On The Radio

Dirty Pretty Things is a band formed by one of the guys from The Libertines, I guess. They were okay... they sounded like pretty much every other band coming out of the UK these days. They had kind of an obnoxious image thing going - with a kick-ass banner hanging behind them in real tough looking script proclaiming their name, and with tons of Union Jacks all over the stage.

The Yeah Yeah Yeahs were a lot of fun. The crowd up until this point had been surprisingly well-mannered and nonaggressive. You always had tons of space around you where you were standing. Once Karen O took the stage, they started to cluster together a little more and start dancing. She was wearing some crazy yellow-and-purple unitard with a cape and a mask. TV On the Radio joined them for their encore to do "Modern Romance" together.

Karen OKaren O of Yeah Yeah Yeahs
Karen O of Yeah Yeah Yeahs

We got Stefanie and Clemens's e-mail address and phone numbers. We finally e-mailed them two days ago, but so far no response. Hopefully they still like me.


Die Wiener Kompilation



Video of the YYYs playing "Turn Into" at Full Hit Of Summer

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Die Ankunft

I've been in Vienna for thirteen days now but haven't had regular access to the Internet until last night. I'll try to condense those thirteen days down as much as possible. For the first week and a half I was able to get online occasionally by testing out a list of free wi-fi hotspots I downloaded. Some worked, some didn't. One was in an English pub called Pickwick's. Though they had a wireless network, I couldn't connect to it because, apparently... they lost the password. They were very helpful, however, in giving me tips on how to steal wireless from the cafe across the street.

Pickwick's, incidentally, was the place where I saw my first musical performance in this, the home of Mozart, Schönberg, Strauß, etc. They were called DeWieners and they described themselves as a rap/funk/jazz hybrid. There were three guys (StePh, ScOOp, and Sweat-on) who rapped in German on top of beats provided by a live drummer, keyboard player, and a guy playing some wicked slap bass. Oh, and there was also this guy playing saxophone who must have been at least 70 years old. They even played some Wu-Tang covers translated auf Deutsch.

DeWieners, including old guy
DeWieners, including old guy

We spent the first week in a hotel in the city center. Vienna is divided into 23 districts called Bezirke. The hotel was in the first Bezirk, which is the most tourist-y. We were led during our orientation week by a bald guy named Kent. He's had a pretty crazy life. We only know about it from the occasional snippet he drops in conversation. He's 56 years old and loves surfing. He was born on the west side of Chicago, went to SIU-Carbondale. He was in the army at some point. He's been living in Austria since 1978, except for brief periods of time when he's taught in schools in Hawaii, Florida, and Indonesia. Kent's married to an Austrian woman who grew up on a farm. He has a degree in psychology and works now at this institute in Vienna for American students. On the first night, he took us out to eat and told us the food and the first round of drinks were on him, but after that we were on our own. He ended up buying us five 1.5-liter pitchers of wine. Kent got pretty schnockered that night.

Kent
Kent

Later that night, some of us went to an area of town known as the Bermuda Triangle. It's really just three bars, but I guess the idea is that people go in, get "lost," and never make it out. We went to the bar Kent said was his favorite, Krah Krah, and, feeling very European, sent him a text message telling him to join us. He responded, calling us a bunch of "rouges" [sic] and ended up showing up for another round. Some of my schnockered classmates used this opportunity to repeatedly yell out the only German words they knew - fünf (five) and das Leitungswasser (tap water).

Kent taught us a lot of Austrian slang, though we have our doubts about exactly how contemporary and useful the words are. For example, he explained that the word for "to bum a cigarette" was "schnorren." When Erik, another Chicago student here, asked an Austrian girl for a "schnorillo," she got very offended and said that was a word only bums use. He's also taught us how to call someone a "bullshit salesman." According to Kent, no means yes for Austrians, so if a girl is being hit on and wants to get rid of the guy, she should make sure he gets the picture by calling him "eine Troddel." I looked this up in my dictionary, and it means... a tassel.
eine Troddel
eine Troddel

The next day, Kent took us to a restaurant called Centimeter. The gimmick of the place I guess is that you order things by the centimeter. On the menu, they had a platter called The Sword that's supposed to be enough to feed six people. There were eleven of us, and we opted to order two Wheelbarrows, which are supposed to feed 3-4 each. We weren't able to finish half of either of them. Kent also ordered us a meter of bread with all sorts of different toppings on it. We of course weren't able to finish that either, so Kent offered the leftovers to some Austrian dudes at the table next of us, who were already in the midst of enjoying a meter of beer. They pretty much just brought the tap to their table. As a thank-you for the bread, they gave Kent a giant stein of the beer and repeatedly told him, "Bottoms up!" Kent got pretty schnockered that night.

The Wheelbarrow
The Wheelbarrow

Speaking of Austrian food, I never want to eat another piece of breaded pork again in my life. Al, my roommate now, used to be a Jew, but he's had to eat so much pork out of necessity he's had to convert.

This is probably plenty for the first post, but I'll have more soon.


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